DIY Vitamin C Serum

Very affordable and easy to make, DIY Vit. C serum really improves your skin.  Due to ascorbic acid being unstable in an aqueous medium, it only lasts a week.  Make sure you use pure ascorbic acid powder and not the tablets/pills.  Enjoy!

My Love Affair With Vitamin C

Okay, so I've been using Vitamin C products for over a year now with great success.  Most of the time Vitamin C serums are marketed for anti-aging, but it has worked very well for my acne.  I've become very curious about Vitamin C's wound healing properties and decided to do more research.

Vitamin C is an essential vitamin that helps heal wounds.  Vitamin C, in the form Ascorbic Acid, is a water soluble vitamin.  It's considered essential because humans can't manufacture it, so it must come from your diet.  It is needed for the production of collagen, the building block of healthy skin, hair, and nails.  Collagen is needed to repair wounds on the skin, like acne.  I notice my breakouts don't last as long when I use a Vitamin C serum. 

One of the greatest properties of Vitamin C is that it can be applied topically and is absorbed by the skin.  It doesn't just "sit" on the skin, but actually goes to work to make a real difference.  This is something few creams can claim.  It also fades hyperpigmentation and promotes a balanced, even skin tone.

My Experience

Acne:  I started using Vitamin C in the Summer of 2010.  Around this time, my skin had suffered a terrible breakout.  I had acne on top of acne, bumps forming under the skin, and dark spots galore.  This is the point where I got serious about my skin care. 

Terrible.  I had many clogged pores and bumps forming underneath.  I was breaking out every single day. 

I know it's just skin and there are wars going on in the world, but the condition of my skin made me feel little depressed.

I stopped reading magazine ads and started reading scientific journals.  I wanted to discover what really worked.  Every published study I read concerning skin health always mentioned Vitamin C.  That's when the light bulb went off.  I ran to Sephora and bought Ole Henkrisen Truth Serum.  I got home, washed my face, and applied the serum.  Within a week, my acne had reduced and my skin had a glow.

Even Skin Tone:  Fading hyperpigmentation and evening my skin tone was very challenging.  While acne lasts for a couple of weeks, hyperpigmentation can last months.  Add on top of that a generally uneven complexion, probably due to using irritating skin care and hormone flucuations, and you've got one person who thought her skin would never change.  I like using Vitamin C to fade hyperpigmentation because unlike hydroquinone, it only lightens where it needs to; the hyperpigmented areas.  It enhanced my overall complexion, giving the skin a glow.  Over time it balanced my skin tone, making it more even.  The change isn't over night, but it does work.  I used Vitamin C and glycolic acid to get to this point.  I've been using Vitamin C for a year.

Much Clearer, but still a few small spots left.

Almost there.  Still working on the texture and evening out my skin tone.  I love Vitamin C!

Vitamin C products I've Used In the Past Year:

1.  Ole Henkrisen Truth Serum.  The serum worked very well, but I wanted to try other brands.
2.  PCA Skin C-Quench.  A 15% ascorbic acid serum.  This product did absolutely nothing for my skin.  I believe it was oxidized because it was brown when I received it.
3.  Avalon Organics Vitality Facial Serum.  Love this!  It's more of a lotion than a serum, but it really gets the job done.  I've actually bought this 3 times already.  As a product junkie, that's incredible!  I rarely buy the same product over and over. It really has to be outstanding.  It's also very inexpensive for a serum, costing only $18 at Wal-Mart, $12-$15 online.  Very hard to find a negative review on this product.  Millions of folks can't be wrong.
4.  Cosmetic Skin Solutions CE-Ferulic.  This product is an affordable dupe for the outragously expensive Skinceuticals CE-Ferulic ($145.00!).  I've just added this product into my regimen (7/15/11) and I love it!  I love what the combination of Vitamin E, ferulic acid, and Vitamin C is doing for my skin.  It's very affordable, costing only $39.95.
5.  DIY Vitamin C Serum.  A very effective and affordable way to add a Vitamin C serum into your regimen.  It only lasts a week, but it works just as well as commercial brands.  I make and use this while I'm trying to decide which commercial serum to buy next ;)

I'll never be without Vitamin C.

Product Rave: Devita Solar Protective Moisturizer

I cannot tell you how many times I have used a sunscreen that left me with a whitish cast.  I would always have to wear makeup even when I didn't want to.  Being that my skin is very sensitive to chemical sunscreens, I'm pretty much limited to the physical ones.  Like many persons of color with sensitive skin, it's very difficult to find a natural, physical sunscreen that: 1.  Doesn't leave my skin oily, and 2.  Doesn't leave a white cast.   So imagine how thrilled I am to have discovered Devita Solar Protective moisturizer!

Devita Solar Protective moisturizer is a 100% physical sunscreen containing 19% Zinc Oxide.  It provides a respectible SPF 30 in a silky base of aloe, skin identical ingredients, anti- inflammatories, vitamin e, and hyaluronic acid.  I've worn it while exercising outside and my hyperpigmented areas were not affected by the sun.   Based on that, I can conclude that it provides excellent uva/uvb protection.  It's very hydrating, yet non-oily.  But best of all, it leaves absolutely no whitish cast on my dark skin.  Prices range from $16.00-$25.00 online.  I got mine from Vitacost.com for about $16.

The creator of Devita products is a fellow acne sufferer and she has created one of the best sunscreens of all times.  If you're ever surfing the Environmental Working Groups (EWG) website looking for a sunscreen, you'll notice that Devita is always rated #1.  It's very difficult to find a negative review of this product.  Millions of people can't be wrong, so give it a try.

Product Rave: 100% Pure Enzyme Mask

Oh joy!  I've finally found something that gently exfoliates my sensitive, acne prone skin. 

I bought the 100% pure enzyme mask after doing extensive research on enzymes.  I really wanted to replace my weekly microdermabrasion with something a little more gentle and this fits the bill perfectly.  Initially, I wasn't expecting this to exfoliate as well as a microdermabrasion cream, but it did!
If you don't know already, papain and bromelian are proteolytic enzymes that target that dry keratinized layer of skin.  Their effectiveness is greater than a scrub, but less drastic than a chemical peel. 

The mask is in powder form and you have to mix it with your favorite liquid.  I just used water.  Here's what the company has to say:
             "Skin brightening facial mask concentrated with pineapple enzyme, papaya enzyme, Vitamin C and Citrus, effectively peels surface dead skin cells for a brighter, glowing complexion.  This facial peel is concentrated with potent anti-aging antioxidants which help restore the appearance of previously damaged skin."

My Experience:  I did my first treatment on July 20, 2011 and a second treatment on the 23rd.  It's very simple to use; simply mix a tablespoon of the powder mask with 1 teaspoon of water or lemon juice.  When mixed with water, it has a creamy, frosting like consistency.  After cleansing, I was able to smoothly apply the mask with a foundation brush.  I then left the mask on for 5 minutes.  During the 5 minute wait time, I could feel it working.  My skin felt a little itchy in certain areas and like something was crawling across my nose.  After five minutes, I rinsed and washed my face again (according to my research, always wash your face after an enzyme peel.  If trace amounts are left on the skin, it will continue to digest your skin, causing irritation).  After that, I toned with Citrix antioxidant toner, applied Cosmetic Skin Solutions CE+ferulic acid serum, phyto gel to my dark spots, and moisturized with CeraVe.  My skin was satiny soft and with a rosy glow.  This product did everything it claimed and more.  It's definatley going to be a staple in my regimen!

Ingredients: Kaolin Clay, Bromelian, Papain, Pineapple Juice, Vitamin C, Lemon Juice.

Enzyme Therapy For Dark Skin

Often times my skin seems to be too sensitive for the more aggressive treatments available, such as AHAs and BHAs.  I mean, they work, but sometimes I can’t use them every single day.  In my attempts to care for my sensitive dark skin, I’ve started searching for alternatives to glycolic and salicylic acids.  My research has led me to the proteolytic enzymes papain and bromelain.

Papain

Papayas are not only delicious, but apparently the sap from the stem can exfoliate the skin.  Papayas contain the enzyme papain.  Papain is an enzyme that breaks down proteins and therefore has the ability to dissolve dead skin cells.  This fact has been known for many years and that’s why it’s often found in meat tenderizers.  Papain reduces inflammation, dissolves scar tissue, gently exfoliates skin, and adds moisture as it exfoliates.   It does contain latex, so those with latex allergies should not use it.  

Bromelain

Bromelain is another proteolytic enzyme and it is found in pineapples.  It was first isolated from pineapples in the 1800’s and was used to reduce inflammation.  Some studies have shown that it reduces swelling from insect bites and stings.  This leads me to believe that it would also be beneficial for acne since acne is inflammation.  It’s also a wonderful exfoliant.  In fact, it was often used to remove damaged skin from burn victims. Just imagine what it can do for you.   

Both enzymes seem to exfoliate without the irritation associated with chemical peels.  Sounds like a win-win situation to me!  I plan to use an enzyme peel once a week and will report the findings.

Compromised Skin

The skin does far more work than what we give it credit for.  It’s our body’s first line of defense against pathogens and prevents excessive water loss.  It also regulates temperature and synthesizes Vitamin D.  It does its job very well, but at times we can sabotage our skin’s efforts at keeping us healthy by using harsh skin care products.

The skin is made of 3 layers: Epidermis, Dermis, and Hypodermis.  The epidermis contains the stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer and serves as a barrier.  This barrier is shed every 27 days to make room for new cells migrating from the basal layer to the surface.  Since the epidermis has no blood supply, it is completely dependent on the nourishment supplied from the dermis.  This is why it’s important to drink plenty of water and eat a healthy diet.  Your lifestyle will absolutely show through your skin.  Otherwise the body will try to conserve water, leaving the skin dry and vulnerable.  The Epidermis is where water loss can occur, causing a compromised skin condition.

Compromised skin is characterized by redness, irritation, acne, and rashes.  Not only can we dry our skin from the inside out, but also with the products we use.  Avoid soaps and alcohols.  Instead use soap-free, pH balanced cleansers such as CeraVe and MD Forte.  Avoid toners that contain alcohol and use moisturizers that combine humectants and emollients.  If you only use humectants, moisture will evaporate as it comes to the surface.  If you only use emollients, your skin will be dehydrated in the lower levels.  Humectants draw moisture to the surface and emollients prevent its evaporation. 

So what to do if you skin is too far gone?  Well, simply moisturize and seal.  No vitamin c, glycolic acids, toners—nothing.  All you’re going to use is Aquaphore, physical sunscreen, and CeraVe for next few months until your skin is back to normal.  Keep in mind that this regimen is for compromised skin-- skin that is raw, dehydrated, and losing pigment due to irritation.

The Regimen:

1. Cleanse your skin with Aquaphore.  Before getting in the shower, smear Aquaphore all over your face.  When your skin is in this condition, never steam it or allow water to touch it.  The steam from the shower can actually dehydrate your skin further. 
2. After your shower, gently remove the Aquaphore with a clean, soft wash cloth.
3. Apply a cream that contains ceramides.  Ceramides are powerful ingredients that actually repair your skin.  I like CeraVe because it is very effective and inexpensive.
4. Seal in the ceramides with Aquaphore.  You must create a seal because pollution and irritants in the environment can damage your raw skin.
5. Apply a physical sunscreen. 

Do steps 1-4 at night.

Now, I’ll be the first to admit that when I saw this regimen on a forum a few years ago, I was like, “yeah right, my skin will break out like crazy!”  I figured I had nothing to lose; my skin was already jacked up.  So I took the plunge.      

My experience with compromised skin barrier:   Summer of 2009, I was perusing a post on acne.org.  The title was something like, ‘Even Skin Tone with Baking Soda’.  I immediately opened the post and read it, hoping I would find the answer to all my skin problems.  The poster claimed that her skin improved so much that she just had to share. She went on to say how she would scrub her face with baking soda, then use apple cider vinegar afterwards as a toner.  She showed before and after pictures demonstrating how wonderful this regimen has worked for her.  Her skin did improve a lot, so (gulp) I tried it. <--------BIGGEST MISTAKE OF MY LIFE!  I first scrubbed my skin with the baking soda, thinking ‘hey this is nice, my skin is so soft’.   I used diluted ACV as a toner afterwards.  I heard a little sizzling noise and my skin burned.  ‘That’s what it’s supposed to do, right?’ I thought to myself.  Okay.  Next day, I used my regular cleanser, which was something from Dermalogica, used the ACV toner, and did the rest of my regimen wholly satisfied that I’m doing something great for my skin.  No pain, no gain.  By the third day, my skin was raw. My cheeks were 2-3 shades lighter than the rest of my face.  My face had a rash.  Plain water irritated my skin.  “Nakia, girrrllll, you've done it now!!!!’, I told myself.  I was in a panic.  I couldn’t wash my face; everything, even water, irritated my skin.  So I hopped online (again) to look for something that would help me.  I came across a forum that was discussing skin irritation and read about the Aquaphore regimen.  I tried it and my skin calmed down immediately.  Within a few months my skin color returned to normal.  A few months after that I was able to incorporate active ingredients, such as salicylic acid into my regimen.  In all it took about 8 months for my skin to return to normal.  My “normal” at that time was acne, unfortunately.  So far, I have overcome skin sensitivity and acne.  Now I’m on my way to “makeup optional skin”.  Stay tuned.