Is Natural More Effective?

Recently I've been on a natural skin care kick.  This is odd, because I've always felt that my skin needed science to stay clear.  I would always have my trusty benzoyl peroxide, retinols, and glycolic acid nearby just in case something went down.  But now that I've been using all natural products for the past few weeks, it makes me wonder if they're more effective.  Not only are these products effective, but they are also very gentle.  Maybe what my skin really needed was a gentle touch.  I've been using Eminence Organics products and I'm in love!

What happened?  I was testing out a new skin care regimen using Acne.org benzoyl peroxide (BP) nightly and Cosmetic Skin Solutions CE Ferulic vitamin C serum during the day.  I was also using Cosmetic Skin Solutions Phyto gel for dark spots and it was HORRIBLE for my skin (more on this later!).  It made me break out like c-ra-zy.  I had another set back and was so mad at myself.  After a year of getting my skin clear, it had broken out again.  So now I'm back at square one, fading dark spots and treating acne.  Naturally, I pulled out my BP and slathered it all over my face at night.  It worked like a charm up to a certain point, but I was still having hormonal breakouts.  Just a few weeks ago, a very resistant pimple appeared next to my nose.  Nothing worked on this thing, not even my BP gel.  I was treating my entire face with BP, then putting a little extra on the spot.  Still didn't work.  It only got bigger and more painful.  It was like it had its own blood supply.  I thought I might have sensitivity to BP gel, so I stopped using it.  The next day I ordered Eminence Organics Herbal Spot Serum and Thermal Spring Whip Moisturizer.   

Eminence organics to the rescue.  I received the Herbal Spot Serum and Thermal Spring Whip on October 5, 2011.  I still had this huge whitehead on my face and wanted it gone!  I immediately washed my face and used the products.  My skin calmed down instantly.  Within a few days, the zit was gone!  I was so amazed that a mixture of herbs and spices had cleared my skin when nothing else worked. 

I definitely think some natural products deserve more recognition.  Don't get me wrong, some natural skin care products are crap (just like some non organic products), but there are a few that are very effective.  If it worked for my stubborn acne, then it can work for anybody.

Mini Haul

It appears I can't stop buying stuff!  So far this month I bought Proactiv Revitalizing toner, Reviva Labs 10% glycolic acid cream, Avalon Organics Vitality Facial Serum (refill) and Vitamin C rejuvenating Oil Free moisturizer.

I was looking to combine some steps in my routine and I thought I'd give these products a try.
I plan to use the Proactiv toner once or twice a day.  Since it's both a toner and exfoliant, I can give up using a seperate toner and glycolic acid product.  I bought the Reviva Labs glycolic acid cream to use with my BP gel at night.  Avalon Organics serum is a refill and since I like the serum so much, I decided to try the cream.

Do The Impossible: Even Your Skin Tone

Well, it's not really impossible, but it does take some time.  So, you've struggled with acne for years and FINALLY your acne is in remission.  Great!  But now when you look in the mirror, all you see is blotchy, uneven skin marred with dark spots.  Relax and take a deep breath because I'm going to tell you exactly how I improved my skin.

My Regimen To Clear Dark Spots: 

A.M.
1. Cleanse with MD Forte II cleanser.  Apply on dry skin and allow to remain on skin for 5-10 min.  I use my Clarisonic brush.
2.  Tone (optional).  I love using a toner to remove residue.  Toners I use are Thayer's Rose, Dickison Witch Hazel, or Citrix antioxidant toner.  Allow your skin to dry completely. 
3. Treat dark spots.  I LOVE DHC's Acerola extract.  This stuff really works and it's hydroquinone free!  Caution:  Do not apply this all over your skin like a serum.  It works just as well as hydroquinone and it WILL make your skin blotchy.  Ask me how I know.  Allow 15-20 for it to penetrate.
4.  Apply glycolic acid serum.  I use MD Forte lotion and it's very "watery", so I apply it before the lotion-like Avalon Organics serum.  If I use a water-like Vitamin C serum, I'd apply the glycolic acid afterwards.  Allow to penetrate.
5.  Apply a Vitamin C serum.  There are so many to choose from, but I like Avalon Organics Vitality facial serum, Ole Henkrisen Truth Serum, and Cosmetic Skin Solutions C + E.  Wait 20 minutes before moving to the next step.
6.  Moisturize with a Ceramide rich lotion.  I use CeraVe.
7.  Apply a physical sunscreen.  Devita makes a really good one.

P.M.
1.  Remove makeup with a cleansing oil.  I use Shu Uemura.  I also use a seperate makeup remover for my eyes.  It's made by Equate.
2.  Use a gentle cleanser formulated for your skin type.  I use CeraVe foaming wash with my Clarisonic.
3. Tone.  At night, I'll typically use something gentle and moisturizing, such as Thayer's Rose.  Wait 20 minutes.
4.  Use a retinol product.  Right now I'm using Afirm 3x retinol, but I've used prescription and one by Jan Marini in the past.  If you still breakout occasionally, you might want to rotate your retinol with a good benzoyl peroxide gel or some other acne treatment that works for your skin.  I do this when it's that time of the month.  I like acne.org's BP gel.  Wait 10-15 before moisturizing.
5.  Apply a ceramide lotion/cream.

Once or twice a week, do a deep exfoliation treatment.  If your skin isn't sensitive to scrubbing, use a good microdermabrasion cream.  I like Olay's microdermabrasion treatment and Makeup Artist's choice micro scrub.  *Some people will actually hyperpigment with scrubbing, so test it out to see if it works for you*.  If you are sensitive to scrubbing or prefer not to use a scrub, try an enzyme peel.  I tested and really like 100% Pure Pineapple Enzyme mask.  It exfoliates your skin, but it's gentle.  If your skin can tolerate it, maybe try a low percentage glycolic acid peel, around 20%-35%.  I've had good luck with Makeup Artist's Choice.  Just make sure you wash your face with a cleanser afterwards.  Enzymes will continue to work if not washed off and glycolic acid is not self neutralizing.  I always apply a honey mask after a deep exfoliation.    
It's a lot of steps and takes forever, but it worked for me!

What to avoid:  When you're on a mission to clear your skin, there are certain ingredients you should avoid- especially if you have pigmented skin.  The ingredients/products listed below can cause irritation which leads to hyperpigmentation (excessive pigment production) and hypopigmentaton (loss of pigment).  I've found the following ingredients/products made my skin blotchy:
          1.  Chemical Sunscreens.  Many people are sensitive to the chemicals used in sunscreens.  Irritation can be presented with stinging, burning, acne and/or rashes.  Ingredients to be watchful for are Avobenzone and PABA.  I notice when I use chemical sunscreens, not only does it burn, but I also develop hyperpigmentation around my mouth and nose areas.  Try a high quality physical sunscreen instead, such as Devita Solar Protective Moisturizer SPF 30.
          2.  Menthol/Peppermint.  This is one ingredient that's widely used in acne products and I cannot believe it.  When will people realize that acne is a sensitive skin condition?  For goodness sake, it's right in line with psoriasis and eczema.  Acne doesn't need to be "burned" off with peppermint.  Geez.  In fact, irritating ingredients only make acne worse.  Anyway, not only does menthol make acne worse, it also irritates melanocytes (pigment producing cells).  You don't want to make melanocytes angry.  Two things can happen when you use menthol/peppermint on your skin: 1. hypopigmentation  and 2. hyperpigmentation.  I know from personal experience.  Everytime I use a mentholated product on my skin, it always hypopigments.  I'll develop lighter blotches on my cheekbones, forehead and nose.  That's my skin's way of saying "you're irritating me!".  If you see your skin hypopigmenting, stop using that product immediately! Hypopigmentation can be permanent.
         3.  Alcohol.  This ingredient in high concentrations is very drying and irritating.  This is one area where you'll have to do some testing to see what your skin can tolerate.  For instance, I can use Dickinson's Witch Hazel and not have any problems.  Then there are other toners that contain too much alcohol and cause my skin to hyperpigment.  
        4.  Poorly formulated glycolic acid products.  Glycolic acid is great if it's formulated properly.  You want to avoid any product with a pH that's too low and or percentage too high.  A pH below 2.5 might be too irritating to the skin and cause a cascade of problems like rashes, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmention, etc.  I've found the only exception to this rule is MD Forte products.  These products contain a high percentage of glycolic acid, but they are buffered and do not irritate the skin.

Hopefully this regimen will work for someone.  I know it helped me a lot.  When you're working on your skin, please be patient.  You may not see results you want in 2 or 3 months, but instead 6 or 8.  It took a year for my skin to finally clear up and I'm still working on it.  Please feel free to augment where you see fit to make it suitable for your skin :)

July Haul

I had so much fun trying new products in July.  A lot of the products I bought this month I've been wanting to try for a long time:

Cleansers:
Acne.org cleanser 

Toners:
Citrix Antioxidant Facial Toner 

Exfoliants:
Glycolix Elite 20% Treatment Pads
Dr. Denese Advanced Firming Facial Pads
100% Pure Pineapple enzyme facial peel mask

Serums:
Cosmetic Skin Solutions Vit. C + E Serum
Cosmetic Skin Solutions Phyto Botanical Gel

Acne Gels/Treatments:
Acne.org treatment

Moisturizers:
Acne.org AHA+
Acne.or moisturizer

Product Rave: Cosmetic Skin Solution C+E Serum Advanced Formula +

I'm always talking about Vitamin C because it's one of the major ingredients that really changed my skin.  I love trying new Vitamin C serums from time to time, but I don't want to pay too much.  For the longest time, I've been wanting to get my hands on Skinceuticals CE+Ferulic, but the price tag stopped me in my tracks.  Its retail price is $145.00, which I think is ridiculous!  I know how easy and inexpensive it is to whip up a Vitamin C serum, so I have no idea why L'Oreal (who owns Skinceuticals) has to charge so much. 

Cosmetic Skin Solutions To the Rescue:  Cosmetic Skin Solutions (CSS) boldly creates duplicate serums that out compete Skinceuticals at much lower costs.  I bought the C+E serum for only $39.95, that's $105.05 cheaper than Skinceuticals.  Don't let low price fool you; these products really work.

     First off, let me do a review of the company itself.  Their website is very organized and easy to navigate.  They have super fast, FREE shipping on all domestic orders, no matter how small.  I placed my order on 7/12/2011 and recieved my package 3 days later!  I ordered the serum and phyto gel (more on this later), both of which were sealed and carefully packaged.  Nothing was leaking or broken.  I didn't get any free samples, but that's okay.  They definately get a thumbs up for customer service!  There's a rumor going around that the owner of CSS is a chemist who use to work for L'Oreal and decided to branch off to make an affordable version.  Hmmm, I don't know how true that is, but thanks anyway!

The Serum Review: The first thing I look for is the color.  A yellow or brown ascorbic acid serum is useless. CSS serum is as clear as water and packaged in a dark amber bottle, like it's supposed to be.  This assures me the serum I have is fresh.  This 15% Vit. C serum has a very thin, water-like consistency and a mild bacon odor.  It's light, but I found it to be very moisturizing for my slightly oily skin.  Characteristic of all well formulated Vitamin C serums, it gives my skin an instant glow.  Over the 2.5 weeks I've been using it, I've noticed my skin continuing to improve.  So, this isn't just some snake oil in a bottle; it's the real deal.  It's concentrated and has the added bonus of Vit. E, hyaluronic and ferulic acids.  I did not experience any irritation.  According to the bottle it has a shelf life of 1 year.  I love this serum and I'd buy it again.

Here's what the company says:

"This super antioxidant combination formula of 15% stabilized Vitamin C, E, and ferulic delivers an unsurpassed amount of antioxidant protection against ultraviolet radiation, helping to improve texture, tone and firmness...Builds a defense against the environmental pollutants and prevents premature aging of skin.  With continued use, skin becomes brighter, firmer, even toned, environmentally protected, and healthier."  

Directions:  "Each morning after cleansing, apply 5 to 6 drops to a dry face, neck and decollete, or as directed by a skincare specialist.  For optimal results, follow with Cosmetic Skin Solutions Hydra B5 Gel Advanced Formula +"

Ingredients:  Water, L-Ascorbic Acid (Topical Vitamin C), Propylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Butylene Glycol, Laureth-23, Zinc Sulfate, Glycerol, Alpha Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Triethanolamine, ferulic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, D-Panthenol, Hyaluronic Acid         

DIY Vitamin C Serum

Very affordable and easy to make, DIY Vit. C serum really improves your skin.  Due to ascorbic acid being unstable in an aqueous medium, it only lasts a week.  Make sure you use pure ascorbic acid powder and not the tablets/pills.  Enjoy!

My Love Affair With Vitamin C

Okay, so I've been using Vitamin C products for over a year now with great success.  Most of the time Vitamin C serums are marketed for anti-aging, but it has worked very well for my acne.  I've become very curious about Vitamin C's wound healing properties and decided to do more research.

Vitamin C is an essential vitamin that helps heal wounds.  Vitamin C, in the form Ascorbic Acid, is a water soluble vitamin.  It's considered essential because humans can't manufacture it, so it must come from your diet.  It is needed for the production of collagen, the building block of healthy skin, hair, and nails.  Collagen is needed to repair wounds on the skin, like acne.  I notice my breakouts don't last as long when I use a Vitamin C serum. 

One of the greatest properties of Vitamin C is that it can be applied topically and is absorbed by the skin.  It doesn't just "sit" on the skin, but actually goes to work to make a real difference.  This is something few creams can claim.  It also fades hyperpigmentation and promotes a balanced, even skin tone.

My Experience

Acne:  I started using Vitamin C in the Summer of 2010.  Around this time, my skin had suffered a terrible breakout.  I had acne on top of acne, bumps forming under the skin, and dark spots galore.  This is the point where I got serious about my skin care. 

Terrible.  I had many clogged pores and bumps forming underneath.  I was breaking out every single day. 

I know it's just skin and there are wars going on in the world, but the condition of my skin made me feel little depressed.

I stopped reading magazine ads and started reading scientific journals.  I wanted to discover what really worked.  Every published study I read concerning skin health always mentioned Vitamin C.  That's when the light bulb went off.  I ran to Sephora and bought Ole Henkrisen Truth Serum.  I got home, washed my face, and applied the serum.  Within a week, my acne had reduced and my skin had a glow.

Even Skin Tone:  Fading hyperpigmentation and evening my skin tone was very challenging.  While acne lasts for a couple of weeks, hyperpigmentation can last months.  Add on top of that a generally uneven complexion, probably due to using irritating skin care and hormone flucuations, and you've got one person who thought her skin would never change.  I like using Vitamin C to fade hyperpigmentation because unlike hydroquinone, it only lightens where it needs to; the hyperpigmented areas.  It enhanced my overall complexion, giving the skin a glow.  Over time it balanced my skin tone, making it more even.  The change isn't over night, but it does work.  I used Vitamin C and glycolic acid to get to this point.  I've been using Vitamin C for a year.

Much Clearer, but still a few small spots left.

Almost there.  Still working on the texture and evening out my skin tone.  I love Vitamin C!

Vitamin C products I've Used In the Past Year:

1.  Ole Henkrisen Truth Serum.  The serum worked very well, but I wanted to try other brands.
2.  PCA Skin C-Quench.  A 15% ascorbic acid serum.  This product did absolutely nothing for my skin.  I believe it was oxidized because it was brown when I received it.
3.  Avalon Organics Vitality Facial Serum.  Love this!  It's more of a lotion than a serum, but it really gets the job done.  I've actually bought this 3 times already.  As a product junkie, that's incredible!  I rarely buy the same product over and over. It really has to be outstanding.  It's also very inexpensive for a serum, costing only $18 at Wal-Mart, $12-$15 online.  Very hard to find a negative review on this product.  Millions of folks can't be wrong.
4.  Cosmetic Skin Solutions CE-Ferulic.  This product is an affordable dupe for the outragously expensive Skinceuticals CE-Ferulic ($145.00!).  I've just added this product into my regimen (7/15/11) and I love it!  I love what the combination of Vitamin E, ferulic acid, and Vitamin C is doing for my skin.  It's very affordable, costing only $39.95.
5.  DIY Vitamin C Serum.  A very effective and affordable way to add a Vitamin C serum into your regimen.  It only lasts a week, but it works just as well as commercial brands.  I make and use this while I'm trying to decide which commercial serum to buy next ;)

I'll never be without Vitamin C.